This recipe for pasta with a spicy sauce of anchovies, garlic, capers, olives and hot peppers is the so-called “Prostitute’s Pasta.” Some say it was named because the enticing smell lured customers to the brothel. Others insist it was a quick, cheap, hearty meal that the ladies could make between engagements. At any rate, the big, distinctive flavours will surely wake up the palate.
1/2 cup olive oil
6 large cloves garlic, minced
1 cup chopped black olives
2 tbsp drained capers
50 g can anchovies, chopped, drained
28 oz (796 mL) can diced tomatoes with juices
1 tbsp dried oregano
1 tsp chili flakes
2 tbsp each: red wine vinegar, fresh lemon juice
6 cups dried fusilli
1/2 cup chopped curly parsley
In large pan, heat oil over medium. Add garlic. Cook, stirring, 5 minutes to soften. Don’t brown. Add olives, capers and anchovies. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add tomatoes and their juices. Raise heat to medium to reach gentle simmer. Stir in oregano, chili flakes, vinegar and lemon juice. Cover; cook 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, in large pot of boiling, salted water, cook fusilli as per package instructions until al dente; drain well. Divide pasta over 8 plates; cover with equal portions sauce. Garnish each with parsley.Makes 4 main or 8 appetizer servings.
Adapted from Sara Moulton’s book Sara’s Secrets. The grilled squid served in bite-size pieces adds a smoky richness to a standard mesclun salad brightened by multi-coloured tomatoes and the lighter but still pungent tang of a white balsamic vinaigrette.
1-1/2 lb (700 g) cleaned squid (1 or 2)
1-1/4 cups olive oil
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp kosher salt + more to taste
2 tbsp freshly ground pepper + more to taste
1/4 tsp chili flakes
1/4 cup white balsamic vinegar
8 cups mixed salad greens
2 cups diced tomatoes (red, yellow and orange)
Place squid in glass or ceramic container.
In bowl, whisk together 1/2 cup oil, lemon juice, 1 tablespoon salt, 2 tablespoons pepper and chili flakes. Pour over squid. Cover. Marinate 2 hours in fridge.
Remove squid from marinade and barbecue directly over high heat on greased grill 90 seconds per side. Let cool 10 minutes. Cut into 1-1/2-inch pieces.
In small bowl, whisk together remaining 3/4 cup oil and vinegar. Season with salt and pepper.
Divide greens over 8 plates. Top each with equal portions squid and tomatoes. Drizzle 2 tablespoons dressing over each. Add final grinding of pepper and serve.
Makes 8 servings.
Merluzzini Con Lo Zenzero
Miniature Cod-Ginger Cakes are a modern answer to the traditional Polpette di Baccala or Salt Cod Balls that are a part of the traditional Seven Fishes dinner. These are adapted from a codfish cake recipe in James Beard’s American Cookery. Crispy outside, creamy inside, with the bright tang of fresh ginger, they make great hors d’oeuvres. If you want a dipping sauce, standard seafood cocktail sauce or a mayonnaise-based sauce flavoured with lemon juice and/or dijon mustard are good choices.
2 large Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 lb (450 g) cod fillets
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup plain dry breadcrumbs
2 large eggs, lightly beaten
3 tbsp finely grated, peeled ginger
Salt + pepper to taste
1/2 cup peanut oil
Curly parsley sprigs for garnish
Place potatoes in medium pan. Cover with water. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce heat to medium. Cook 8 to 10 minutes, until easily pierced with fork. Drain well; return to pot. Add olive oil. Mash until smooth. Cool.
Place cod in microwaveable dish, cutting to fit if needed. Add 1/2 cup water. Cover tightly with plastic wrap. Microwave on high 4 minutes. Remove from dish; cool. Drain excess water.
In large mixing bowl, combine mashed potatoes, cod, breadcrumbs and eggs. Using potato masher, mash until smooth. Stir in ginger. Season with salt and pepper.
Form mixture by hand into 24 patties, each about 1/4 cup. Refrigerate, covered, at least 4 hours or 1 day ahead.
To cook, in large skillet, heat peanut oil over medium until shimmery. Cook 8 cod cakes at a time until golden, about 5 minutes. Carefully turn; cook 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining cod cakes.
Place on serving platter. Garnish with parsley. Serve warm or at room temperature.
Makes 24.
Risotto Dell’aragosta
This is adapted from the recipe for Risotto Milanese in The Classic Italian Cookbook by Marcella Hazan. A basic risotto is made even more unctuous for this festive meal by the addition of sweet lobster meat, a hint of pungent truffle oil and the sparkle of fresh tarragon. Either buy your lobster/lobster meat already cooked, or buy two live lobsters (each about 1-1/4 pounds or 600 grams) and steam as per your usual method.
6 cups chicken stock
1 tsp saffron threads
2 tbsp each: unsalted butter, olive oil
1 tbsp finely chopped shallot
2 cups arborio rice
1/2 cup Champagne, dry white wine or vermouth
2 tsp white pepper
2 cups chopped cooked lobster meat
1-1/2 cups finely grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
1 tbsp white truffle oil
1/4 cup finely chopped tarragon
Freshly grated black pepper to taste
In large saucepan, bring stock to boil over high heat. Reduce heat to medium-low to maintain strong simmer. Using mortar and pestle, grind saffron to fine powder. Cover with 1/4 cup simmering stock.
In large, wide pan over medium-low, heat butter and olive oil until slightly bubbling. Add shallot. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes to soften. Don’t brown. Add rice. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes until well coated. Reduce heat to low. Add Champagne, wine or vermouth. Stir gently with wooden spoon until liquid is absorbed. Stir in saffron mixture and white pepper. Add 1/2 cup simmering stock to rice, stirring until absorbed. Repeat until stock is gone and rice is creamy but slightly al dente. This will take about 20 minutes. Stir in lobster, cheese and truffle oil. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Stir in tarragon; remove from heat.
Divide over 8 plates. Season with black pepper. Makes 4 main or 8 appetizer servings.
Zuppa di Cozze
This recipe takes Alexander Dumas’ description of an everyday Neapolitan Zuppa di Vongole from his Grande Dictionnaire de Cuisine and replaces the clams with plump mussels. It’s a dish of bold, simple flavours and you should taste them all distinctly: garlic, tomato, wine and, above all, the mussels.
1/4 cup olive oil
4 large cloves garlic, finely chopped
28 oz (796 mL) can diced tomatoes with juices
1 cup dry white wine
3-1/2 cups chicken stock
2 lb (900 g) mussels, bearded, rinsed, drained
Salt + pepper to taste
1/2 cup chopped curly parsley.
In large pan, heat oil over medium. Add garlic. Cook, stirring, 5 minutes to soften. Don’t brown. Add tomatoes, wine and stock. Raise heat to medium-high; bring to gentle boil. Cook, stirring occasionally, 15 minutes.
Add mussels; cover. Cook 5 minutes. Uncover. Discard any unopened mussels. Season with salt and pepper. Stir in parsley.
Serve in soup bowls.
Makes 8 servings.
