Monday, March 10, 2008

Pina's Scaccia

From Cucina del Sole (2007) by Nancy Harmon Jenkins, this is the English description of Pina's scaccia which I first tasted Christmas 1999, and which is illustrated in the Italian Antiche Ricette (2003), a local cookbook from Ragusa. Pina does a broccoli variation. Its like having a lasagna that you can hold in your hand.


Jenkins:
"This is probably the most unusual focaccia of all, made up of layers of dough rolled out till almost as thin as fil; the difference howeve is that this is a yeasted dough, so it rises and puff in a way that filo never does. It comes from Ragusa, a hill town in the southeastern corner of Sicily. Ragusano cooks who fire thier old-fashioned masonry ovens with olive branches or almon shells, say its the finest way to show off Ragusa's prized caciocavallo cheese, called ragusano and made from the milk of the local dark-brown modicana cows.....for the most authentic flavor you will definitely want a cow's milk cheese, preferably made from raw milk and aged for a couple of months at least.

  • 1/2 tsp dry yeast
  • 3 cups semolina
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • 2 cups Basic Tomato Sauce
  • 3/4 pound ragusano or other cheese
  • 1/2 cup finely grated hard aged cheese
  • 18 - 24 fresh basil leaves or 2-3 tsp dried oregano
  • freshly ground black pepper

First make the dough: mix the yeast with 1cup of ver warm water and set asside until the yeast is fully dissoved. Add 1 cup of semolina to a large bowl and pour in the yeast mixture. Stir with a wooden spoon to mix well, but don't worry if the mixture is a little lumpy and looks more like a porridge than bread dough. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside for 2 hours to fement and develop.

When the surface of the starter dough is puffy and bubbly, add about a tablespoon of salt to 1/2 cup of very warm water and set aside to dissolve. Stir the remaining 2 cups of semolina into the starter dough, then add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and mix well. [GBR: note this ends up with a 2:1 proportion of flour to water, same as NYT bread recipe]. Add the salted water a little at a time stirring it well after each addition. You may not need to use all of it -- much depends on the humidity of the room in which you are working. Stir the water in with a wooden spoon, then with your hands. Finally, when you can handle the dough easily, spread 1/3 cup of all purpose flour on a bread board and turn the dough out. Knead for 5-10 minutes, or until the dough is soft and elastic and has lost much of its stickiness.

Rinse the bowl and dry it, then sprinkle a few drops of olive oil in the bottom. Add the dough to the bowl, turning it to cover with olive oil, then cover with plastic wrap and set aside to develop for 2-4 hours, or until doubled.

While the dough is rising, use either a vegetable peeler to shave the ragusano cheese into flakes or use the largest holes of a box grater. Set aside.

When ready to make the focaccia, separate the dough into 3 equal pieces. Coat the bottom of a baking sheet that will hold all three foccace with olive oil. Have ready the tomato sauce, cheeses, pepper and basil. Spread a layer of semolina onto the bread board and roll the dough out tith a rolling pin to make a big oval a good 14 to 16 inches long and 10 inches wide. Roll the dough as thin as you possibly can -- less than 1/16th of an inch is ideal. Working quickly, spread a good 1/4 cup of the tomato saus ove the surface of the oval, then lay a handful of the shaved cheese down the middle and sprinkle with some of the grated cheese. Layer the basil leaves ove the tomato sauce or sprinkle with oregano.Grind pepper over all.

Fold the long left side of the oval in over the center of the dough, then fold the right side in on top of it, as if you were folding a letter. You will have a long rectangle. Paint the top surface with about 2 tablespoons of tomato sauce and scatter a little more grated cheese over it. Now fold the bottom of the rectangle to cover the middle part of the dough and, again, smooth a little tomato sauce and grated cheese on top. Then fold down the top of the rectangle to cover the sauce. At this point you will have a thick portfolio or envelope made of layer of dough, tomato sauce, and cheese. Transfer the portfolio to the oiled sheet and continue assembling the remaining pieces of dough.

When all the dough has been shaped, dribble or paint a little olive oil over the top and set aside, lightly covered with plastic wrap, to rise for about an hour. Preheat the oven to 425F. Transfer the risen focaccia to the oven and bake for 40-60 minutes or until the crust is crisp and brown on top and cooked all the way through. Remove from the oven and serve immediately. " pp73-74, Cucina del Sole, N.H. Jenkins

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Bill O'Shea's Souffle


  • 3 tsp sugar

  • 6 0z dried apricots

  • 1 cup apple juice

  • 3/4 cup egg whites (about 6 large eggs) room temperature

  • 1/4 tsp salt

  • 1/2 tsp cream of tartar

  • 1 tsp vanilla

  • Whipped cream


Fit a well buttered 2 quart (or individual) souffle dishes with a standing collar exending 2" about rim. Butter and dust the dish and collar with sugar.


In a small heavy pan combine the apricots and apple juice. Bring the liquid to a boil and simmer covered for 20 minutes or until they are soft. In a food processor or blender, piree apricot mixture and transfer it to a bowl.


In a large bowl beat the egg white with salt until fluffy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until they hold sof peaks. Add the sugar a little at a time beating constantly. Add the sugar a lttle at a time, beating constantly. Continue to beat whites unti they they hold stiff peaks. Beat in vanilla. Stir 1/4 egg whites into apricot mixture, fold in remaining whites and spoon the mixture into souffle dishes or dish.


Bake at 375F for 25 to 30 minutes, or untill puffed and golden. Remove the collar carefully. Serve with whipped cream.


No collar for individual dishes if dish holds 1 1/2 cups. Cook for 20 minutes. Make ahead up to 1 hour. 5 minutes before souffle is cooked sprinkle icing sugar on top.

Thursday, January 17, 2008

Pad Thai Basics


Be careful when choosing your noodles, they must be soaked and fried; a good quality noodles survives this cooking process. Add the chilli when it is served, to make the dish spicy or mild.
Ingredients for 2 people
1 Small Pack of Glass Noodle
1 Egg
Dry Shrimp
Tofu
Red Onion
Bean Sprouts
1/2 Tablespoon Sugar
2 Light Soy Sauce
1 Tablespoon Oyster Sauce
2 Tablespoon Chilli Sauce
1 Tablespoon Peanuts ( fine pieces )
1 Teaspoon Dry Flaked Chilli
3 Tablespoons Oil

To do:

1. Soak the glass noodles in water for 5 minutes to soften them.
2. Chop the tofu into small squares,
3. Slice the red onion into smaller pieces.
4. Clean the fresh bean sprounts.
5. Put the oil in a hot frying pan with the dry shrimp, and fry for 30 seconds
6. Move it to one side of the frying pan to make room to fry an egg.
7. Break the egg in hot oil and stir quickly for a few seconds to break it up.
8. Add the glass noodle and other cooking ingredients and stir-fry for 1 minute.

Zucchini Summer Salad

Brown zucchini, then layer and sprinkle with thin slices of garlic, mint leaveSs; finish with wine/cider vinegar, let sit for three hours, and serve cold.
6-8 zucchini (courgettes)
olive oil
2 garlic cloves
3 tbsp mint leaves
very good wine vinegar
salt

Scaccia

An alternate guide for when antiche ricette and amiche are not available.

For the dough
1 kg. Hard wheat flour
½ cup water
½ tablespoon salt
½ cup olive oil
1 lemon
½ cup white wine

For the filling
Olive oil
Fried eggplants
Tomato sauce
Grated cheese like Provola and Caciocavallo, and Ragusano

Mix flour, water, lemon juice, white wine and salt in a kneading machine for 5/10 minutes. When the dough is smooth and elastic, knead by hand adding oil slowly. Knead until the oil will be completely absorbed.
Draw a square sheet of pastry as big and thin as you can, helping you with some flour if needed. Season with olive oil and tomato sauce all the sheet, avoiding only two bands above and beneath. Add vegetables and grated cheese at your pleasure, only in the middle. Now you have to fold the scaccia. Ply up and down the bands to the middle, then ply the lateral dough to the middle for two times, closing it like a book. Finish with olive oil.
Preheat oven at 200° (centigrade, eh?) and cook until it will be golden brown.

You can make also smaller pieces of scaccia and fill them with ricotta cheese, herbs and spinaches, onions.